During Women’s History Month, I’ve been reflecting on the women who shaped my life. Not only as a cook, but as a person.
I would like to introduce you to all three.
My Mother, Jean Tenanes
My first teacher was my mother. My mom was raised on a beautiful dairy farm in the Berkshires in Western Massachusetts, where I spent many of my childhood years at my grandparents’ farm. She was an incredible cook and gardener, both of which she learned from her parents. The farm was a formative place for me where the rhythm of the seasons and the connection to the land shaped how I think about food to this day.
What I remember most about my mom isn’t just her delicious food. Every night when we gathered for dinner, I believe that extending the meal with her delicious homemade desserts was part of her strategy to keep us talking and laughing together at the table a little bit longer.
There were so many things to love about my mother but above all was how kind, deeply loving and generous she was. Desserts were her specialty and she never went anywhere empty handed. She loved sharing a little package of something sweet with everyone.
My mom taught me that food is about sharing and taking care of people.
Madeleine Kamman
When I decided to follow my mom’s lead and pursue a career in the culinary arts, I had the privilege of studying with the legendary Madeleine Kamman, earning a Master Chef Diploma in both the White Mountains of New Hampshire and in Annecy, France.
Born in Paris, Madeleine was a master of classical French cooking, brilliant, a perfectionist, and an extraordinary teacher with an exceptional palate. Madeleine was deeply serious about food, a taskmaster and believed that the craft required discipline, focus, and respect. And she was also warmhearted, generous, and loving.
Madeleine was brilliant. She taught us history, botany, geography, and science, especially as it relates to food. She made us better cooks by fostering our creativity through improvisation in the kitchen.
Beyond the kitchen, Madeleine was also an important voice in American cooking. She wrote several influential cookbooks geared to chefs and home cooks alike, and captivated audiences as she traveled around the US teaching cooking, and hosted a PBS television series called Madeleine Cooks, sharing her knowledge with a much wider audience.
She also taught me how to teach and how to write recipes like Carrot Soup with Anise and Crème Fraiche I wrote while I was studying with her. She also taught me how to teach and encouraged me to travel and teach. She told me that teaching was my calling and I took it to heart.
Alice Waters
A few years before I studied with Madeleine, I went to Chez Panisse for dinner and ordered a pizza topped with arugula salad dressed with lemon juice, a touch of garlic and virgin olive oil. When I tasted my first bite, the flavors were beyond anything I had ever imagined... And I thought, I want to work here someday.
That dream came true. When I returned from France, I arranged an interview with Alice and found myself standing at the door of Chez Panisse, incredibly nervous, with my résumé in hand.
That day, Alice and I sat, drank fresh lemon verbena tea, and talked. She never looked at my resume, but instead, she wanted to hear about my favorite thing to cook, my time spent with Madeleine in France, and she got the most excited when I told her about my grandfather’s farm in the Berkshires. Thanks to my grandparents, I got the job.
It was an extraordinary 5-year stint, and I learned so much, such as starting with the very best ingredients and treating them with care. Yet, the lessons I learned from Alice and working at Chez Panisse, went far beyond cooking. There is a deep respect for the farmers, the bakers, wine makers, culinary artisans, and the dedicated staff at Chez Panisse who put love and respect into everything they do.
Over the years, Alice and I have remained friends, and I cherish that relationship. She continues to be part of my life today, and I admire her generosity, vision, and genuine care for the people that surround her.
I’m eternally grateful to the women who have guided and inspired me and shared their wisdom so generously and I hope you’ll take a moment to reflect on the incredible women in your life.
Mothers, teachers, mentors, friends. The ones who encourage us, challenge us, and quietly help us become who we are meant to be. TAnd perhaps invite them to linger at your table a little longer and share laughs, stories and a delicious dessert!
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